THE CRAFTSMAN'S ART
Ring Production
There are many ways to make a signet ring. My preferred method is to make a bespoke ring for each client. In order to exactly match the individual's requirements.
- An exact pattern is made in wax, carefully fashioned to the client's requirements; this alone can take several hours to achieve the best possible finish so that process 2 is made easier
- The wax pattern is then sent to, in my opinion, the finest casting studio in Britain. In this process the wax is exchanged for the chosen precious metal, to produce a faithful copy.
- The inside of the ring is now prepared for hallmaking at the Edinburgh Assay Office. Hallmaking is a guarantee, in law, to the quality of the precious metal. The mark is stamped into the shank of the ring.
- Next, the finish is further refined and the shape perfected, using fine grade files and polishing. If a stone-set ring is required the stone will be set at this stage, an all gold ring requires a perfectly flat mirror finish on the head, this is achieved by lapping.
- Only now, after this careful preparation, can the engraving begin.
Seal engraving
A Seal is wax impressed with a design and attached to a document as evidence of authenticity. Seal Engraving is the cutting of the design into the ring , desk stamp etc., which is used to achieve the wax impression. Consequently the design has to be cut into the ring in reverse to create a wax impression which is recognisable. Also, every design has to be unique thus avoiding forgery.
When Mr Oliver is engraving a seal onto a gold signet ring , he dusts the surface of the ring with a fine layer of powder then, using a feather, he draws the design, in reverse, onto the head of the ring. When the design is to Mr Oliver’s liking he draws a more permanent design onto the ring using a scriber. The next stage is to cut, by hand, into the signet ring using the various wooden-handled tools which Mr Oliver has made himself over the years. The steel blade of each tool has been hand crafted to fit a specific type of job. Eventually, after many hours work, the completed ring is pressed into soft modelling clay to show an impression of the finished article. This is the first time that Mr Oliver is able to see, in detail, how the design looks. The ring is then brushed and cleaned and a final wax impression is taken. After the wax is taken the head of the ring is lapped to give a mirror clean finish.
Seal Engraving onto a stone signet ring is a completely different skill. Mr Oliver dusts the surface of the ring as before but instead of cutting into the ring with steel tools, he uses miniature wheels which are attached to a lathe. Mr Oliver holds the stone head of the signet ring against the turning wheel and, applying pressure, carves away the stone.
Using these techniques Mr Oliver is able to create the most intricate designs. A full Coat of Arms is reproduced in all its detail from a piece of paper A4 sized to a tiny wax impression 14mm x 13mm.
Lapping
A "lap" is a wheel with a diamter of 12 inches, made of an alloy of lead and tin. The working surface is highly polished and absolutely flat. "Lapping" produces a mirror finish on the head of a signet ring or any other item requiring a highly reflective flat surface. To lap a signet ring Neil Oliver applies special oil and grinding agents to the surface of the lap; then holding the signet ring at exactly the correct angle against the treated lap, which is turning at high speed. With the application of a gentle pressure with the fingers the surface of the ring is polished. Lapping is very skilled work; "lappers" in the jewellery trade have taken years to acquire the necessary techniques, such individuals are highly regarded.
Polishing
Polishing is the final stage of ring production. Round soft buffs, of approx. 4 inches diameter, made of layers of calico cloth called "mops" that turn at high speed on a polishing motor. Jeweller's rouge is applied to the mop and the ring is held against the spinning mop to ensure a beautiful deep glowing finish.